Journal #1
It's only seconds, but it seems forever. The board is being pulled by the curl. I know i'm going down, and then bam.
My face hist the sand and shell. whoosh. My legs are pushed by the curl, and my left leg hits the ground hard. My board is being taken in to shore and pulling my wrist with it. I try to stand up, but another wave slams the board into my face. I turn and hit the sand again. I crawl to the shore with the surf all around me. My cousins run over too me. Blood runs down my face. I cough up some sea water. Picking up my board I flash a smile to everyone on the beach and run right back into the surf.
A loser to the world, but a hero in my head.
A lonely wild man, i'll be mellow when i'm dead.
Robert Snow
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